Patterns
These patterns are my creative work and are copyrighted by me--Celeste Bennett. You are free to use these patterns for personal use or charity. You are also free to sell the items you make, however, these are copyrighted patterns. You can not sell or reproduce these patterns for sale in any format without written permission from me.
I would appreciate it if when you post pictures of your creations online, you'd post a link back to this website or give credit to Yarn Genie Mysteries. If, for some reason, you can't or you forgot a credit link, I don't have a fleet of yarn police to investigate, so you're on your honor. If you'd like to donate something small to me for these patterns, please use the donate button to the right to send me a donation or pay it forward by helping someone in need. I thank you for your generosity. Celeste |
Your small donation for the use of these patterns is appreciated.
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Frugal Living Patterns
Heatless hair curlers
Crochet Self Locking Hair Rollers
Abbreviations and Stitches:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sc dec = single crochet decrease
sc dec = single decrease
rnd = round
FLO = work the stitch in the front loop only.
FO = finish off. [Cut yarn leaving a long tail for weaving in the ends securely.]
Instructions for One Curler/RollerCut a 6-8 inch length of yarn and set aside for later use.
Start with the “arm” and locking loop: Ch 14, join with sl st to form a circle. Sl st in each chain around and in joining. Ch 1.
Rnd 1: work 6 sc in joining and then rotate the work to get access to the first sc of the round and join the 6 sc with a sl st. [6 sc]
Rnds 2-14: sc around [6 sc]
Rnd 15: *sc, inc* repeat from * to * around. Join by sl st. chain 1 [9 sc] Note: if you want fatter curlers you can add a few more stitches in this round.
Rnds 16-30: sc around. [9 sc] This is the main body of the curler that you wrap the hair around.
Rnd 31: (work in FLO of Rnd 30) sc inc around, ch 2. Do not cut the yarn.
Thread the needle with the 6-8 inch length of yarn you set aside. Sew across rnd 15 to separate it from the main body of the curler and keep the stuffing out of his area.
Stuff the main body of the curler before starting Rnd 32.
Rnd 32: (work in BLO of Rnd 30) sc dec around. FO. The increase and decrease of rnds 31 and 32 creates the flange. Looping the starting circle around the flange is what holds the curler in place.
Close the end by weaving through each remaining sc and pulling it tight, and securing it.
Weave in all the ends.
Congratulations! You have a comfy roller that will allow you to dry your hair without heat, but still give you curls.
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sc dec = single crochet decrease
sc dec = single decrease
rnd = round
FLO = work the stitch in the front loop only.
FO = finish off. [Cut yarn leaving a long tail for weaving in the ends securely.]
Instructions for One Curler/RollerCut a 6-8 inch length of yarn and set aside for later use.
Start with the “arm” and locking loop: Ch 14, join with sl st to form a circle. Sl st in each chain around and in joining. Ch 1.
Rnd 1: work 6 sc in joining and then rotate the work to get access to the first sc of the round and join the 6 sc with a sl st. [6 sc]
Rnds 2-14: sc around [6 sc]
Rnd 15: *sc, inc* repeat from * to * around. Join by sl st. chain 1 [9 sc] Note: if you want fatter curlers you can add a few more stitches in this round.
Rnds 16-30: sc around. [9 sc] This is the main body of the curler that you wrap the hair around.
Rnd 31: (work in FLO of Rnd 30) sc inc around, ch 2. Do not cut the yarn.
Thread the needle with the 6-8 inch length of yarn you set aside. Sew across rnd 15 to separate it from the main body of the curler and keep the stuffing out of his area.
Stuff the main body of the curler before starting Rnd 32.
Rnd 32: (work in BLO of Rnd 30) sc dec around. FO. The increase and decrease of rnds 31 and 32 creates the flange. Looping the starting circle around the flange is what holds the curler in place.
Close the end by weaving through each remaining sc and pulling it tight, and securing it.
Weave in all the ends.
Congratulations! You have a comfy roller that will allow you to dry your hair without heat, but still give you curls.
coming soon: fingerless gloves
Easy Crochet Patterns
Butterfly Dishcloth Pattern
The pattern is copyrighted by Celeste Bennett. The items made from this pattern can be offered for sale and you are free to link to the site where you found the pattern, but the pattern itself may not be sold or distributed in any format or media without the copyright holder’s written permission. If you post pictures of your project anywhere, please provide a link back to the website where you found the pattern.
Difficulty: Experienced
Materials:
1.25 Ounces of cotton yarn [variegated cotton yarns used for the dishcloths shown in the pictures]
Size H/8/5.00 mm crochet hook yarn needle
Abbreviations and Stitches:
ch=chain
sc =single crochet
dc =double crochet
hdc =half double crochet
trc = tripple crochet
FO =finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for weaving in the ends securely.
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
Instructions: There are check boxes □ at the beginning of each round or row to help keep track of where you are in the pattern. Additional notes or explanations about the pattern are in [ ] and italicized.
Pattern: [pattern is worked in rows that form a open circle around the starting circle] Ch 7 and join with sl st to first ch to form a circle.
□ Round 1: ch 3, dc in ring, (ch 3, 3 dc in ring) 3 times, ch 3, 2 dc in ring. Ch 1. turn.
□ Round 2: ch 1, work (3dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch1) in each ch 3 space of previous row, sl st into 1st dc of previous row, ch 1, turn.
□ Round 3: work (1 dc, 6 trc, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 6 trc, 1 dc) in 1st ch 5 space, work (2 dc, 5 trc, ch4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 5 trc, 2 dc) in each of the next 2 ch 5 spaces, work (1 dc, 6 trc, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 6 trc, 1 dc) in last chain 5 space, sl st into 1st dc of previous row. 2 of 3
□ Round 4: ch 3, sc in starting ch 7 circle, ch 5, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, sc in starting ch 7 circle [1st antenna made] ch 5, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, sc in starting ch 7 circle [2nd antenna made], ch 3, work a sc in each dc and trc of previous round and (1 sc, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 1 sc) in each ch 4 space of previous round [this provides the tip of the wings], FO by putting a sl st. in to the top of the beginning ch 3.
FO and weave in ends securely.
Materials:
1.25 Ounces of cotton yarn [variegated cotton yarns used for the dishcloths shown in the pictures]
Size H/8/5.00 mm crochet hook yarn needle
Abbreviations and Stitches:
ch=chain
sc =single crochet
dc =double crochet
hdc =half double crochet
trc = tripple crochet
FO =finish off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for weaving in the ends securely.
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
Instructions: There are check boxes □ at the beginning of each round or row to help keep track of where you are in the pattern. Additional notes or explanations about the pattern are in [ ] and italicized.
Pattern: [pattern is worked in rows that form a open circle around the starting circle] Ch 7 and join with sl st to first ch to form a circle.
□ Round 1: ch 3, dc in ring, (ch 3, 3 dc in ring) 3 times, ch 3, 2 dc in ring. Ch 1. turn.
□ Round 2: ch 1, work (3dc, ch 5, 3 dc, ch1) in each ch 3 space of previous row, sl st into 1st dc of previous row, ch 1, turn.
□ Round 3: work (1 dc, 6 trc, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 6 trc, 1 dc) in 1st ch 5 space, work (2 dc, 5 trc, ch4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 5 trc, 2 dc) in each of the next 2 ch 5 spaces, work (1 dc, 6 trc, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 6 trc, 1 dc) in last chain 5 space, sl st into 1st dc of previous row. 2 of 3
□ Round 4: ch 3, sc in starting ch 7 circle, ch 5, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, sc in starting ch 7 circle [1st antenna made] ch 5, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 3 ch, sc in starting ch 7 circle [2nd antenna made], ch 3, work a sc in each dc and trc of previous round and (1 sc, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 1 sc) in each ch 4 space of previous round [this provides the tip of the wings], FO by putting a sl st. in to the top of the beginning ch 3.
FO and weave in ends securely.
Hedgehog Applique or Ornament
This pattern is copyrighted by Celeste Bennett. The items made from this pattern can be offered for sale and you are free to link to the site where you found the pattern, but the pattern itself may not be sold or distributed in any format or media without the copyright holder’s written permission. If you post pictures of your project anywhere, please provide a link back to the website where you found the pattern.
Tuck one of these little guys in a card to give as a quick gift. This is a great stash buster and easily can be sewn on clothing or made into a pin for use other than an ornament.
Supplies Needed:
Size F or 5 crochet hook (3 3/4 mm)
Small amount of worsted weight yarn for body (any color)
Small amount of worsted weight yarn in cream or white for head
Thin ribbon for making a small bow and making the hanging loop
Black puffy fabric paint for nose and eye (or black embroidery floss to make French knot nose and eye)
Yarn needle for weaving in yarn ends
Sewing needle and thread to attach the small bow to the body (or use hot glue)
Instructions:
With body color Chain 3
Round 1: Work 14 double crochet in 3rd chain from hook, join to beginning double crochet with a slip stitch, chain 1
Round 2: (Single crochet in first stitch, chain 5, single crochet in next stitch) do this 6 times. Leave the rest of the stitches unworked and changing to cream color,
Round 3: Chain 2, do a double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, chain 1
Round 3: Draw up a yarn loop in each of the 4 cream double crochets, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Finish off. Weave in yarn ends.
Make a small bow and sew this on the body (or hot glue it on)
Make a ribbon loop and thread it through one of the upper spines of the body and secure it for hanging as a decoration.
Supplies Needed:
Size F or 5 crochet hook (3 3/4 mm)
Small amount of worsted weight yarn for body (any color)
Small amount of worsted weight yarn in cream or white for head
Thin ribbon for making a small bow and making the hanging loop
Black puffy fabric paint for nose and eye (or black embroidery floss to make French knot nose and eye)
Yarn needle for weaving in yarn ends
Sewing needle and thread to attach the small bow to the body (or use hot glue)
Instructions:
With body color Chain 3
Round 1: Work 14 double crochet in 3rd chain from hook, join to beginning double crochet with a slip stitch, chain 1
Round 2: (Single crochet in first stitch, chain 5, single crochet in next stitch) do this 6 times. Leave the rest of the stitches unworked and changing to cream color,
Round 3: Chain 2, do a double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, chain 1
Round 3: Draw up a yarn loop in each of the 4 cream double crochets, yarn over and pull through all loops.
Finish off. Weave in yarn ends.
Make a small bow and sew this on the body (or hot glue it on)
Make a ribbon loop and thread it through one of the upper spines of the body and secure it for hanging as a decoration.
Lip Balm Cozy
This pattern is copyrighted by Celeste Bennett. The items made from this pattern can be offered for sale and you are free to link to the site where you found the pattern, but the pattern itself may not be sold or distributed in any format or media without the copyright holder’s written permission. If you post pictures of your project anywhere, please provide a link back to the website where you found the pattern.

Keep your lip balm always handy by clipping it to your backpack, purse, or key chain. Give one with a new tube of Chapstick as a quick and thoughtful gift to a teacher or friend.
Supplies need:
Instructions:
Leave about a 6 inched tail for weaving in later and make a slip not. Put your hook through the opening in the bottom ring or rectangle of the lobster clasp, 5 single crochet around the base of the clasp.
Rows 1-3: single crochet. chain 1, turn. [5 single crochet]
Rows 4-22: single crochet, half double crochet, single crochet, half double crochet, single crochet, chain 1, turn. [5 stitches]
Fold the long strip of your project up over the lip balm tube. The end of you last row should go to the last row of single crochet you did at the beginning with the cap of the tube should be showing so it can be grabbed to remove it for use. If the strip you just crocheted is too long or too short, remove rows as needed. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing up the sides, but don't do that just yet. You'll want to sew the button on first because it's easier to sew it on before the sides.
Sew on the button so it will face front when you sew up the sides.
Whip stitch the edges closed and weave in all the yarn ends.
Happy Crocheting!!!
Supplies need:
- Size F or 5 crochet hook (3 3/4 mm)
- Small amount of worsted weight yarn.
- Metal Lobster clasp lanyard.
- Yarn needle
- Decorative button (optional)
Instructions:
Leave about a 6 inched tail for weaving in later and make a slip not. Put your hook through the opening in the bottom ring or rectangle of the lobster clasp, 5 single crochet around the base of the clasp.
Rows 1-3: single crochet. chain 1, turn. [5 single crochet]
Rows 4-22: single crochet, half double crochet, single crochet, half double crochet, single crochet, chain 1, turn. [5 stitches]
Fold the long strip of your project up over the lip balm tube. The end of you last row should go to the last row of single crochet you did at the beginning with the cap of the tube should be showing so it can be grabbed to remove it for use. If the strip you just crocheted is too long or too short, remove rows as needed. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing up the sides, but don't do that just yet. You'll want to sew the button on first because it's easier to sew it on before the sides.
Sew on the button so it will face front when you sew up the sides.
Whip stitch the edges closed and weave in all the yarn ends.
Happy Crocheting!!!
Ribbon Shawl to Knit
The pattern is copyrighted by Celeste Bennett. The items made from this pattern can be offered for sale and you are free to link to the site where you found the pattern, but the pattern itself may not be sold or distributed in any format or media without the copyright holder’s written permission. If you post pictures of your project anywhere, please provide a link back to the website where you found the pattern.
Materials:
3 balls (1.75 oz/50 grams/ball) of Ladder Ribbon Yarn -any color that has small brilliant colors suspended between to rows of black or dark color yarn. The shawl shown is done in black with rainbow ribbon colors.
Size 19 (15 mm) knitting needles
Yarn needles
Crochet hook of any decent size example: H, I, J, K (for attaching fringe)
Material note:
For this pattern, it really is the yarn and the larger needles that makes the shawl beautiful and lacy but this pattern can be adapted for other types of specialty yarns and used with or without fringe depending on the look you want. You may find it helpful to keep the stitches shoved well down on the needle until you work them. If they slide off, it is difficult to keep everything from unraveling.
Instructions:
Cast on 3 stitches Row 1 and all subsequent rows: increase in first and last stitches of each row. Work in pattern until the shawl is the desired size triangle. This will usually take two balls to make a decent sized shawl. Weave the ends from joining the yarns together into the work and secure as needed with needle and thread. Cast off.
For fringe:
Cut strips of the 3rd ladder yarn ball for fringe. The shawl shown used 30 inch strips. Fold the strip in half and use a crochet hook to put the loop through the bottom edges of the triangle point and secure it. Do not add fringe to the top edge of the shawl.
Materials:
3 balls (1.75 oz/50 grams/ball) of Ladder Ribbon Yarn -any color that has small brilliant colors suspended between to rows of black or dark color yarn. The shawl shown is done in black with rainbow ribbon colors.
Size 19 (15 mm) knitting needles
Yarn needles
Crochet hook of any decent size example: H, I, J, K (for attaching fringe)
Material note:
For this pattern, it really is the yarn and the larger needles that makes the shawl beautiful and lacy but this pattern can be adapted for other types of specialty yarns and used with or without fringe depending on the look you want. You may find it helpful to keep the stitches shoved well down on the needle until you work them. If they slide off, it is difficult to keep everything from unraveling.
Instructions:
Cast on 3 stitches Row 1 and all subsequent rows: increase in first and last stitches of each row. Work in pattern until the shawl is the desired size triangle. This will usually take two balls to make a decent sized shawl. Weave the ends from joining the yarns together into the work and secure as needed with needle and thread. Cast off.
For fringe:
Cut strips of the 3rd ladder yarn ball for fringe. The shawl shown used 30 inch strips. Fold the strip in half and use a crochet hook to put the loop through the bottom edges of the triangle point and secure it. Do not add fringe to the top edge of the shawl.
Mug Hug Wrap
This pattern is copyrighted by Celeste Bennett. The items made from this pattern can be offered for sale and you are free to link to the site where you found the pattern, but the pattern itself may not be sold or distributed in any format or media without the copyright holder’s written permission. If you post pictures of your project anywhere, please provide a link back to the website where you found the pattern.
Need a quick and easy gift or want to keep your coffee, mulled cider, or cocoa warm? This mug wrap doesn't require fumbling with buttons to stay on. A loop on each end goes over the handle to hold the wrap tight against the mug. Gift it with an inexpensive mug from the thrift or dollar store, packets of cocoa, or candies in the cup, and you have a cute, functional homemade gift.
Note: Because cotton yarns and the dyes used on them vary, these wraps are not recommended for use in the microwave. (It's best to slide the wrap on after your mug is removed from the microwave.)
Materials
Cotton yarn (The kind used for dishcloths. One ball should make two mug wraps.)
F crochet Hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Abbreviations
sc= single crochet
hdc =half double crochet
Instructions
Leaving a long chain for sewing, chain 12 for the handle loop, and then chain another 15 for the wrap base.
Row 1: sc in the third chain from the hook, hdc in the next chain, alternate sc and hdc pattern leaving the last 12 sc unworked. (you should have a sc at the beginning and the end of this first row.)
Row 2-32: chain 1. Repeat the sc and hdc alternating for 32 rows. (Each row will start and end with a sc, with hdc in the sc of the previous row and sc in the hdc of the previous row.)
After completing the 32 rows, hold the wrap around the mug to ensure it fits correctly. Adjust the number of rows as needed to get the right fit.
Chain 12 for the second loop. Cut yarn, leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread the yarn and sew the end of each loop to the other end edge to form the two loops that go around the handle.
Weave in the ends.
Note: If the wrap is too tall or too short for the mug, you can subtract or add the number of chains by 2. If the initial 12 chains for the loops are too much or not enough to fit snugly around the handle, add or subtract a chain or two. as needed to get the fit you want.
I hope you enjoy this pattern. I apologize if I have missed any steps. It has been a long time since I have taken the time to write my patterns down, but I love making these and wanted the pattern to be available so people could make a simple gift to give to teachers, co-workers, friends, and family.
Note: Because cotton yarns and the dyes used on them vary, these wraps are not recommended for use in the microwave. (It's best to slide the wrap on after your mug is removed from the microwave.)
Materials
Cotton yarn (The kind used for dishcloths. One ball should make two mug wraps.)
F crochet Hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Abbreviations
sc= single crochet
hdc =half double crochet
Instructions
Leaving a long chain for sewing, chain 12 for the handle loop, and then chain another 15 for the wrap base.
Row 1: sc in the third chain from the hook, hdc in the next chain, alternate sc and hdc pattern leaving the last 12 sc unworked. (you should have a sc at the beginning and the end of this first row.)
Row 2-32: chain 1. Repeat the sc and hdc alternating for 32 rows. (Each row will start and end with a sc, with hdc in the sc of the previous row and sc in the hdc of the previous row.)
After completing the 32 rows, hold the wrap around the mug to ensure it fits correctly. Adjust the number of rows as needed to get the right fit.
Chain 12 for the second loop. Cut yarn, leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread the yarn and sew the end of each loop to the other end edge to form the two loops that go around the handle.
Weave in the ends.
Note: If the wrap is too tall or too short for the mug, you can subtract or add the number of chains by 2. If the initial 12 chains for the loops are too much or not enough to fit snugly around the handle, add or subtract a chain or two. as needed to get the fit you want.
I hope you enjoy this pattern. I apologize if I have missed any steps. It has been a long time since I have taken the time to write my patterns down, but I love making these and wanted the pattern to be available so people could make a simple gift to give to teachers, co-workers, friends, and family.